Lovely bulbs from 2015

All the bulbs I have grown from seed are now starting to flower, and letting me know what they are. I obviously have some that are multiples of what I need. And Listed below are the red white bulbs I have for sale.
Bulbs on this page are all $10.00 each for flowering size and $5.00 for pups. (if I have any)
Between the items is an article on some technical info on bulbs.

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This article is about bulbs as defined botanically. For bulbs in the wider gardening sense, see Ornamental bulbous plant.

Red & White stripe, picotee, green throat, compact. 
North fence

Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulb
In botany, a bulb is a short stem with fleshy leaves or leaf bases that function as food storage organs during dormancy.

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Red White Stripe yellow centre, scented. Pot

(In gardening, plants with other kinds of storage organ are also called “ornamental bulbous plants” or just “bulbs”.)

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Home Red – bold white, yellow centre.  Sth fence. Feathery

A bulb’s leaf bases, also known as scales, generally do not support leaves, but contain food reserves to enable the plant to survive adverse weather conditions. At the center of the bulb is a vegetative growing point or an unexpanded flowering shoot.

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Red- Orange, White star yellow centre.
Cocktail star

The base is formed by a stem, and plant growth occurs from this basal plate. Roots emerge from the underside of the base, and new stems and leaves from the upper side.
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Red White No 10 Striking

Tunicate bulbs have dry, membranous outer scales that protect the continuous lamina of fleshy scales. Species in the genera Allium, Hippeastrum, Narcissus, and Tulipa all have tunicate bulbs. Non-tunicate bulbs, such as Lilium and Fritillaria species, lack the protective tunic and have looser scales.
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Spidery Red White stripe

Longitudinal section through bulb, Cross section of onion bulb
Other types of storage organs (such as corms, rhizomes, and tubers) are sometimes referred to as bulbs, although as the term is used in botany, they are not.

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Red Orange, White & yellow throat – Cocktail

The technical term for plants that form underground storage organs, including bulbs as well as tubers and corms, is geophyte. Some epiphytic orchids (family Orchidaceae) form above-ground storage organs called pseudobulbs, that superficially resemble bulbs.
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Red White, mauve blush, Green throat. Box No 73

Nearly all plants that form true bulbs are monocotyledons, and include:

Amaryllis, Crinum, Hippeastrum, Narcissus, and several other members of the amaryllis family Amaryllidaceae. This includes onion, garlic, and other alliums, members of the Amaryllid subfamily Allioideae.

Lily, tulip, and many other members of the lily family Liliaceae.
Two groups of Iris species, family Iridaceae: subgenus Xiphium (the “Dutch” irises) and subgenus Hermodactyloides (the miniature “rock garden” irises).
Oxalis, in the family Oxalidaceae, is the only dicotyledon genus that produces true bulbs.[4][5]

Bulbous plant species cycle through vegetative and reproductive growth stages; the bulb grows to flowering size during the vegetative stage and the plant flowers during the reproductive stage. Certain environmental conditions are needed to trigger the transition from one stage to the next, such as the shift from a cold winter to spring.[2] Once the flowering period is over, the plant enters a foliage period of about six weeks during which time the plant absorbs nutrients from the soil and energy from the sun for setting flowers for the next year. Bulbs dug up before the foliage period is completed will not bloom the following year but then should flower normally in subsequent years.

After the foliage period is completed, bulbs may be dug up for replanting elsewhere. Any surface moisture should be dried, then the bulbs may be stored up to about 4 months for a fall planting. Storing them much longer than that may cause the bulbs to dry out inside and become nonviable.

Hippeastrum bulbs, how to grow from seed.

As some people have trouble with email getting lost (sorry bigpond users – your stuff always goes missing) I have put this here for them.

This will also give simple directions on how to grow some of the more interesting hippeastrum crosses bulbs that I sell.  Good luck everyone… I hope they grow like weeds.

Calyptrupum …………
These are originally found growing on trees and in rock crevices. But do very well in a mix of blue metal, coco coir, and vermiculite (or perlite) mix, in a pot…  In a well-lit area with high humidity, so a green shade house is perfect or in a lush tree on the northeast side. Your home environment will have to be taken into consideration when choosing a spot, basically where ever orchids grow… feed with weak liquid fertiliser.

Aulicum x Mandonii …..
Free draining mix in morning sun, but can handle full sun if kept well watered in the heat of summer. Feed frequently for bigger flowers. Ordinary potting mix with added sand is great.

hippeastrum reticulatum var. striatifolium

These bulbs love a shady (not dark) moist environment out of the wind. Plant them deeply in well-drained sandy mix, in a big pot in a greenhouse or another warm shady place.
Water well, but let dry out between waterings, likes humidity, but not being soggy wet.
Should flower in 2 years, if not before. Feed frequently.

SEEDS.……………..
Please use the compost and sand method, unless you are familiar with the floatation method.

I have found better results that way as my water is not suitable for the floatation method.

You will find a great youtube video here

Temperature is the most important factor in germination of hippeastrum seeds, the optimum temp is between 20C and 30C However a low of 15C at night and a high of 40C during the day is acceptable.

I use 1/3 multi-purpose potting mix,  1/3 coco coir, 1/3 sand. Mix well..
Sieve enough to use on top layer. Old fan safety mesh works well here.
You need a light friable mix that holds water but still drains well.

Lay the seeds out in rows 3cm between seeds and 10cm between rows.

I use polystyrene boxes, with holes and fill about 12cm deep.
Layout seeds and cover evenly with 1cm topping mix.

Water well until the whole box is soaking, leave to drain, cover with plastic, select a warm shaded spot, Don’t water again unless just a light spray to keep top slightly damp until you see leaves appearing 2 to 3 weeks. Then fertilise with charlie carp Seasol Superbooster. or equivalent.

You can keep them in a greenhouse, or cover with plastic in the warm shade outside.
This is to help keep the top moist and stop the wind blowing the moisture away

At these spacings, you can keep them in the box a couple of years… When they get too big they can go straight in the ground. And some may flower next year. I often just spread them out a bit and leave them in the poly boxes, you get a lot less weeds.
I also use Thrive liquid fertiliser, trace elements and pelleted chook poo when older.

Baby BULBS…………………………..
When transplanting out baby bulbs, make sure the green/white tip/leaf on the top of the bulblet is above the ground as much as possible without them falling over.

Mature BULBS.…………
When planting out mature bulbs, make sure the bulb neck is above the top of the soil or mulch. Otherwise in winter with no leaves, the dew/rain can settle in the top of the bulb… making them rot out.   Plant into good quality well draining garden soil… Or well draining potting mix in a pot. Feed frequently, some varieties like more shade than others.

All hippeasrtums like liquid fertiliser, seasol and chook poo. Keep watch for clivia grub (black with white markings) which can burrow into the bulb.  Water less frequently as the bulbs grow older.

Water in all new bulb transplants with liquid fertiliser,  charlie carp, Seasol Superbooster. or equivalent.

Please email for more info
Happy gardening
Best of luck
Heather

I have a new website, a work in progress. Adding all the time.
Please check back from time to time..

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